What does it Do?

Answer: Test of older units shows that the effective range of the remote is only around 80cm. Manufacturer claims the remote should be effective up to 8m but the glass panel in front of the LCD is "blocking" the signal and limiting it to very short range. Whether it’s on a smartphone, tablet, or smart TV, viewers can enjoy their favorite shows and movies on-the-go or from the comfort of their own homes. The conduit used in a control cable assembly is designed to a specific length and the ends of the conduit, and cable, can each be configured with or without fittings. I also didn't want a mess of wires all over the place so I choice to encase the wires for each stick inside some sleeving with heat shrink on the ends. I suggest using red and black wires for live and ground respectively but I just used colours of wire I already had (green for ground and orange for live). This is out of the way enough that accidental hitting isn't going to be an issue but allows me to have my hand on the stick until I'm on the ground.

For example if a function isn't working on one stick, but works on the other then it's probably a ground issue. Knowing how you want everything is one thing, figuring out how to wire it all is totally something else. I don't want to lose the accessibility by closing out the empennage until Bill finishes the return air design. Nothing too fancy about it, you just don't want it unplugging in flight or otherwise bouncing around in there. There was some additional construction to the sticks as well that had to be done. It took me a bit to conceptualize my wiring plan for the control sticks. Here's a picture I took prior to connecting the grounds, or the Co-Pilot stick for that matter. The only item not shared is the PTT as there's a Pilot PTT and Co-Pilot PTT. In the end I ran a set of wires to the Pilot side and then behind the panel I solder sleeved additional runs for the Co-Pilot side.

In those cases I don't want to have to cut and re-splice wires so I went with the installation of DB15 connectors. First off there's a bit of a clearance issue and what some have done is cut the back part of the control stick to bring it in tighter. If it doesn't work on either then it's probably a VPX or other issue. Knowing there's a bit of a clearance issue I took it apparent and came down to about as far down as you could. I also took this a step forward into some nerd territory and programmed my home flight sim joystick with various things and determined what I liked the best. If it's something I use during critical flight phases (take offs and landings) or if it's something I use all the time (Push to talk) I wanted it on the stick. Pinkie button - Very strange button that most people seem to use as a push to start function.

The control cables are a basic function of any engine really. Thumb Button - This is where I put Autopilot disconnect and Control Wheel Steering (CWS), seems the most natural place to have this function. I'll have to wait until I can power the plane back up to ensure PTT, AP Disc, TO/GA, Airhorn and such work. Note that disconnecting the data first, then the power, when removing the drive will allow the drive to detect the removal, and possibly perform a few last millisecond housekeeping tasks before the power is fully removed. Lighting purpose and aesthetics will determine what kind of fitting you want in any given area. I didn't want something I would use once a flight, but to be honest I was running out of functions, thought about maybe radio fliping, but I have two radios and I'm somewhat used to doing this on the panel. Here's a picture of where it all splits out.

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